he tempestuous sushi chef Sotohiro Kosugi has finally opened a classy new space dedicated to his art de cuisine in the West Village. After a stint in Atlanta, the Food & Wine’s 1997 best-new chef is now ten years into the resto game and aims to share his sushi obsession with refined New York palate’s (rather than the college kids of the Atlanta locale). As with many perfectionists, hostile behavior and erratic outbursts can ensue if a dining patron even so much as considers ordering a basic salmon maki. Stick with the extreme and you will be dually rewarded with a Japanese culinary display worthy of royalty. Just let the genius do his thing, and bow accordingly in appreciation – word exchange is unnecessary. - E.J.