Celebrated Chef Scott Conant has a touch of gold. Every establishment he’s laid his hands on in the big city has turned to the shiny substance. L’Impero was a Midtown savior and Alto’s memorable seafood pasta still has locals raving. So it’s no surprise that Conant’s new venture, Scarpetta, was well-received by New York’s particular foodie masses. Moving out of his regular Midtown hood, Scott opened up Scarpetta in the Meatpacking District.

In the spot that was formerly Gin Lane, Conant has erected a polished yet rustic Italian dining room. Crisp white table cloths and fully set tables create a classy but unpretentious background for the chef’s culinary creations. The only piece of innately contemporary design in the 70-seat dining room is the roof. It retracts on sunny days, allowing diners to bask in the sun and hear the birds chirp (or the traffic honk). There is also a cute café area and a quaint patio. Full and free of fuss daily, this room will be well-used.

Take my word for it, though, and go for the food, not the décor. That is usually a chef’s forte, is it not? Conant does Italian food with an original twist. His crispy fritto misto ($17) and creamy polenta with a fricassee of truffled mushrooms ($16) are excellent tidbit starters that tease of what’s to come. Next on the roster is the imported Italian raviolini stuffed with squash blossoms and anchovy butter ($24). And then, if you have any room left for it (you better make room), there’s the Scarpetta Osso Bucco ($30). Served with a side of saffron-parmigiano orzo, the slow-cooked veal shank comes boneless for easier masticating goodness.

To be full, fat and happy on quality Italian cuisine that tastes like your momma made it with a twist of contemporary food ideology, try out Scarpetta. Trust me. –J.T.