T

his is a requiem and a tale of reincarnation (happy, Buddha?). The top of the Peninsula Hotel has been graced with stunning views of the Manhattan skyline, but the Pen Top bar's Astroturf décor was not conducive to anything other than a casual lounge. In need of a redo, the Pen Top was bid adieu and replaced with Salon de Ning.
Channeling 1930s Shanghai as the 'Paris of the East,' Salon de Ning is hopping on the almost-out-of-steam Asian fusion experience. The newest reno was modeled after the travels of Madame Ning, a Shanghai socialite who hosted friends in her eclectic salons all over the world. This, of course, was back in the day when being a socialite actually meant something other then flashing your naughty bits.
Luxury permeates throughout the stunning 5th Avenue Beaux Arts building and the burgeoning terrace retains the elegance expected from the AAA Diamond Award-winning hotel (which had been lacking at the Pen Top). The dominant black and red lacquered furniture is accented with a cohesive mixed-bag of artwork; etched glass, Moroccan lanterns, Chinese screens, Venetian mirrors, and scattered daybeads fill the space. Well-dressed vertigo-teasing patrons create a refined din while staring off from the 23rd floor of the hotel. With the opportunity to browse an entirely different exhibit, the view from the west terrace looks into the MoMA sculpture garden a few blocks away. Meanwhile, the east terrace stages a picturesque Manhattan skyline that would make Woody Allen proud.
Mimicking the space is a similarly eclectic, Asian-inspired menu including smoked-tea-dusted shrimp, a cheese plate, maki and an assorted chocolate plate. These items will keep your legs from shaking while a mixologist-made list of signature cocktails will try to reverse the effect. Equal parts original and pricey, the drink list makes good use of Asian influences such as lychee, passion fruit, Absolut Mandarin, and fresh mint leaves, (all in the Ning Sling).
Can Asian fusion be reinvigorated? This dramatic take on the theme suggests it's on the road to redemption.