orter House is midtown's latest vegan restaurant- wait, it's not vegan (90s irony is dead (drag)). Michael Lomonaco's high-end steakhouse is like the Keg on swank designer steroids. Everyone loves a booth (womb issue) and this wood and dim-light joint has amped the formula. You have to be comfortable to enjoy a steak dinner (else you'll feel strange undoing that top button), and PHNY takes care of you. Offering fine cuts in a haughty atmosphere, this steakhouse manages to co-opt proletarian bovine desires and expense account décor tastes. -S.T.