eith McNally, the man behind Balthazar and Pravda, has created a hailstorm of activity in the Meatpacking District. Pastis, a Parisian-style French bistro, is constantly buzzing with frenzied diners. It’s hard to associate fine French dining with noise and energy, but people must like it because the crowds keep coming.

And that’s both a good thing and a bad thing. It’s a great place for people watching, as this is the place to see and be seen, but it’s not a good place for a low-key dining experience. But if you don’t mind bumping your elbow against someone else’s when cutting your steak, then this is a good place for you. Especially if that person that you’re literally rubbing elbows with is a celebrity coming to one of the hippest restaurants in one of the hippest areas of the city.

The décor has been carefully selected to resemble an authentic Parisian bistro. Such details as distressed mirrors, newspaper racks, and cigarette shelves from overseas flea markets create the perfect visual atmosphere, even if the crowds might spoil the low-key intentions.

The food is mostly what you would expect from a French style restaurant. Fish and Chips, steak frites, or salade nicoise fill most plates, but they’re done so satisfactorily that no one is likely to notice the lack of an adventurous touch.