Although we now refuse to call them "tapas", small sharing plates are still in in New York City. Obviously, Tony Fantastico knows this. (That can't be his real name, can it?). The Italian restaurateur has converted the formerly private dining room of Ancora Ristorante into the cheaper, more casual Pasta Bar at Ancora, which he's calling Ancora's "cousin" restaurant.

In case the word "bar" didn't tip you off, the new spot takes a decidedly populist bent, at least compared to most "upscale" Italian eateries in New York. Although it's called a "pasta" bar, pasta actually takes up a small percentage of the menu. The focus is instead mostly on stuzzichino (because we still can't credibly use the word "tapas"), reasonably sized (and priced) small dishes like Vongole Oreganate (breaded baked clams), Carpaccio di Manzo (thinly sliced filet mignon carpaccio over rocket and aged parmigiano reggiano cheese), and Veal Scaloppini Marsala.

But going back to that whole "bar" thing, this is food that's meant to come with liquid accompaniment. The restaurant offers a large wine lists, a collection of classic and old-school cocktails, and, most impressively, a boutique selection of homemade grappas and anisettes. Pasta Bar isn't open for lunch yet, so you can't fulfill your Mad Men style dreams of drinking at lunch hour, but there is a Happy Hour of sorts for those ambling in from the Financial District rat race.

You may be drinking, but you can at least feel somewhat classy while doing so. That's where the fancy oak-wood bar and antique-style wall sconces come in. Meanwhile, prints by famed celebrity photographer (or, if you're going to get all Italian, paparazzi), Ron Galella serve as both decoration and conversation pieces, a welcome accompaniment to a grappa and some pasta. But it's not tapas, okay?