ating at Graffiti feels like going to a housewarming party in a friend's teeny tiny apartment - that is, if your friend is an offbeat, somewhat distracted, kick-ass chef. The slightly cramped quarters encourage table sharing or moving, but no one minds. Typically interesting music occasionally gets interrupted by an incongruent pop song, causing temporary cringing followed by knowing grins: someone forgot to edit their iPod mix; oops. At Graffiti, my friend and I were treated more like houseguests than diners. In a restaurant that only seats eighteen, attitude makes a huge impact.

Even on a Tuesday, we waited half an hour for a table, but, again, this place is small so expect the wait; it's worth it. Eventually, we tucked into a corner, sharing a table with another couple, and ordered our wine. My friend wanted a by-the-glass Syrah, but the house had run out. "No problem," said our waiter, "just pick one of the bottles and you can have a glass of that." When it arrived, he poured me half a glass, rather than a small tasting, even though I had ordered other wine myself.

The intriguing menu plays with combinations of flavors and spices, savories and sweets. Having had an early dinner, this was a drink and snack stop-in so we opted to split an order of Chili Pork Dumplings with Grapefruit Confit ($12). Our server explained that it came topped with grated fried chickpeas and sweetened grapefruit rind. Though it sounded odd, the toppings really complimented the spiciness of the pork.

For dessert we had an order of the Grape-Braised Figs with Black Pepper Ice Cream ($6). Quite good, it was enhanced by the appearance of two complimentary glasses of Prosecco (which I had had when we first arrived) because, we were told, "It will go well with the flavors." Well, thanks!