|
Scott Tavener | Last Updated: May 01,2009 3:11:56 pm
|
|
T  he Cold War ended, New Coke failed, Barack Obama won the United States' Presidential Election, and Frank Gehry redesigned Toronto's Art Gallery of Ontario (AGO). You probably knew all of that. Perhaps naming the AGO's new restaurant FRANK seems a bit obvious. It shouldn't. While it does in part honor its designer -- yeah, he did the restaurant, too -- it functions on two other levels. First, it nods to artist Frank Stella whose work will be displayed in the space. Secondly, the word connotes straightforwardness. It's a fitting moniker given the inclusiveness of the restaurant, though it humbly underplays the room's elegance.
FRANK has hospitable aims. Fronted by large floor-to-ceiling windows, decked out largely in light wood tones (Douglas Fir?), and accessible directly from Dundas, it has the welcoming aura that its name portends. Translucent multi-colour tables and modern brown leather chairs and banquettes dot three separate dining areas. Near the front of the room, a frosted glass and stainless steel bar awaits. Passersby get an easy glimpse inside and diners get a thorough look into Executive Chef Anne Yarymowich's (pictured) open kitchen located in a back corner.
 Slyly given two levels care of a tucked away ramp and unobtrusive stairs, FRANK's 130 seats feel neither cluttered nor sparse. FRANK fronts Dundas Street, though you may also enter through the Gallery's boutique. A café sits below and is reachable through the restaurant.
Yarymowich has helmed the AGO's restaurant (nee Agora) since 1996 and helped Gehry to create the new space. For the menu, she has placed a fitting emphasis on Ontario: dinner selections include Braised Ontario Rabbit ($25) and Lake Erie Pickerel ($23) and the wine list is sourced exclusively from the province. Though, she goes farther a-field with other mains, such as Cumbrae Farm Ribeye ($30), Roasted Organically Farmed Cod ($24), chicken, Wild Boar Loin Chop ($28), Coq au Vin ($23), and Duck Leg Confit and Pan-Seared Duck Livers ($22).
FRANK also serves brunch and lunch. The former's card has a number of curios, notably a Grilled Cheese with gruyere and peameal on potato bread ($12), Vanilla French Toast ($15), Truffled Scrambled Eggs ($16), and Milford Bay Smoked Trout Potato Hash ($17). For now, lunch apes the dinner menu, but adds a daily soufflé and sandwich, as well as a grilled Toulouse sausage, playfully named FRANKfurter (you don't have to be a blurbist to like that), an Apple and Rosemary Pot Pie ($17), and the apposite Still Life with Pear, Pancetta and Fig ($14).
|
 AT A GLANCE
FRANK
317 Dundas Street West, Toronto, ON
416-979-6688
Contemporary
Dundas Street West
Venue:
Restaurant
Hours:
Tue. to Fri.: 11:30am - 2:30pm Tue. to Sat.: 5:30pm - 10:30pm Sat. and Sun.: 11:00am - 3:00pm
Price Range:
$$$ (Within Reach)
Payment:
Master Card, Visa, American Express
|
 |
THE BUZZ
|
|
IN THE AREA
|
|
|
|
|
24 Reader Reviews | I have really wanted to go to Frank's for the past while after reading praises about it in Toronto Life. Typically Toronto Life is my go-to guide for all restaurants in Toronto as they're always spot on... this, however, was the exception. First off, the front part of the restaurant was lovely, but despite it being completely empty, we were seated with the other 60 people next to the noisy kitchen in the back. We asked to move and reluctantly the hostess obliged. I'm assuming that they were seating everyone in the back to make it easier on the wait staff with shorter distances to carry the dishes. This doesn't do much for business when potential patrons walk by and see a seemingly empty restaurant. Then came our meals. All the plates came out at room temperature. I thought my first app, the shrimp, was delicious so I didn't really mind. It was when the cold 'pork belly' arrived that I was pretty unimpressed. It was a cold chunk of fat on a plate. I literally could not get enough meat off it to get a forkful out of it. I've had pork belly at Black Hoof, Rose Bud, ett and am well aware of how it should be. I recognize that there should be fat, but at the very least there really should be equal parts of meat (if not more). This was a horrid dish.
It's not a cheap night and I feel terrible that I convinced a friend to go with me. Oh, I should also mention that it had a terrible stale air smell. I likened it to that of an airplane. This really was a glorified cafeteria.
On a positive note, the server was pleasant.
1. Vanessa's Review :: February 11, 2010 Vanessa's Rating: 2 Stars |
On CBC, Frank was pitched as a forerunner of the new comfort food trend, but the experience there is far from comfortable.
I went there for lunch on a workday Wednesday in March. It seemed like everyone coming in was told they couldn't have a table if they did not have a reservation. Several tables were empty so I wondered why they take reservations. But most of us got directed to the bar or the hospital lounge like little tables and chairs. It is a north-facing space with a cold modern design, so the lighting was cheerless and unflattering to the vast number of hungry tired art lovers who just wanted lunch. It was almost humourous after a while to see each arrival looking like someone lost in an airport for days.
On another funny note, my friend, a AGO member remarked that during her visit, the server refused to bring a steak knife for her meat because the restaurant had not found any to match their cutlery, so she was reduced to eating her meat with her fingers.
The menu itself is fairly pricey, especially considering the teeny portion sizes, but everything was tasty and creatively done.
A highlight was the service. All who served me were professional and friendly.
I expect the signature restaurant of a city's main gallery to be an important statement about the city's identity and the key cultural message it wants to send to the world. To be frank, our message still needs work.
2. Janet's Review :: April 24, 2009 Janet's Rating: 2 Stars |
I went for lunch with 3 friends. At first glance the restaurant seemed "pleasant" on the eyes. No better. We were unfortunately sat upstairs in the room to the left.
I get the decor. I do. It's a restaurant made to look like a gallery in a gallery. But it could be so much more. It's just too stark for my liking. Our waiter rushed us through ordering only to make himself lost whenever we wanted something... like the bill.
On the flip side. I LOVE the wine list. Ontario wine at The Art Galler of Ontario. Love it. Loved the food. We kinda shared our meals around the table so as to get a good idea of the menu. I'd certainly go back one day. Especially since I am a member of the gallery but honestly there are so many amazing restaurants in Toronto yet to get my hard earned money it may be a while.
3. Barry's Review :: March 06, 2009 Barry's Rating: 3 Stars |
Disappointing. AGAIN! A friend went in today for lunch, a single mom, just looking for a bite to eat. The hostess asked if she had a reservation. The restaurant was empty! And, they refused her a table and did not even attempt to accomodate her. Pretentious!!
4. Kevin's Review :: March 05, 2009 Kevin's Rating: 1 Stars |
Had a wonderful dinner the other night. The food was very good but what made it for us was our warm and charming server, Mary. We felt well attended to without the hovering. She suggested a lovely alternative to the missing Pinot Grigio option and encouraged us to begin with the exquisite pear starter. Kudos on the Ontario wine list, people who are against it don't know as much about wine as they think. Thanks Mary, we will be back soon.
5. Margaret's Review :: March 04, 2009 Margaret's Rating: 4 Stars |
Overpriced and Overhyped.
Twice we have been left sitting at the bar and completely ignored. Once we complained to the manager (Nicholas) and he tried to tell us we were imagining things.
Had the boar chop one night and since the chops were rather thick, I asked for a steak knife. They have no steak knives. How long have they been open?? They have had "trouble" getting steak knives. So, after paying $28 for a chop, I ended up eating it with my hands.
Want a nice meal and a night and day difference in service level, skip Frank and go down to Nota Bene on Queen.
Frank is a gian cafeteria in disguise.
Very very disappointing.
6. Faith's Review :: February 22, 2009 Faith's Rating: 2 Stars |
Is there no manager running this restaurant? the staff seem to be running aroung with no direction,the young manager we did end up finding seemed too busy to deal with our concerns.
7. Ted's Review :: February 12, 2009 Ted's Rating: 1 Stars |
Had dinner here and it was really disappointing. I love the new AGO but the design and service at Frank is borderline misanthropic. We were seated next to the infamous coat closets which was as bad as everyone has said. We barely saw our server and had to search for her twice. The food was fine but not worth the price. They charged us for a glass of wine we sent back and when we saw the manager we thought we were saved but no! he came over to argue with us too. I thought dining was supposed to give you a warm fuzzy feeling. This was the exact opposite.
8. Anonymous's Review :: February 12, 2009 Anonymous's Rating: 1 Stars |
Frank is a great visit. A restaurant in an art gallery! Which gives you new reasons to visit both a gallery and restaurant you've never thought of as interesting and those you claim to know like the back of your hand. Just think of Toronto's AGO as the shining example.
9. Ruth Merkenson's Review :: January 17, 2009 Ruth Merkenson's Rating: 4 Stars |
I love the airy feel of the room when you walk in...snob of art culture comes over me...and why.
Because of the food, design of it... beauty...yourdivalicious cards describe the fusion vocabulary to a T.
Toronto has class and culture, people just get stuck in the elevator of life going up and down...missing the view!
Maja Pearcey
10. Maja Pearcey's Review :: January 13, 2009 Maja Pearcey's Rating: 3 Stars |
3 stars for: design and the cocktails. otherwise, 4 stars for everything else.
11. Dana Edwards's Review :: January 06, 2009 Dana Edwards's Rating: 3 Stars |
I went last week for brunch and this week for dinner and both visit's leave me saying "FRANK is incredible". My husband and I sat at the bar for lunch and even though the bartenders were servicing a lounge and making drinks for the rest of the restaurant the lady and gentleman really made us feel at home. They take the time to make cocktails with fresh ingredients and creative twists and we overheard the young lady boast about bringing back the champagne cocktail. It's a beautiful space and a special place to be, I highly recommend it for those looking for a classy place to take a date or be with friends and loved ones. When we decided to reserve for dinner within the week we asked another couple to join us and sat in the upper part of the restaurant. We all grinned and discussed how the meal and the service here is truly outstanding. The only thing that disappointments me about FRANK is the reviews that it receives from so called reviewer-elites such as the infamous "Killer Kate" (Joanne Kates). When as a city did we allow our experiences to be misguided by someone who doesn't understand how to eat for fun? The real point of FRANK was seen on the faces all around me, it's about enjoying the company you keep, it's about smiling, eating, drinking and being together.
Pardon the cliche but quite frankly it has been one of the nicest experiences I have had dining in a long time.
Cheers!
12. Anna's Review :: January 04, 2009 Anna's Rating: Stars |
Food was good, and the atmosphere extremely studious. Would like to see their wine menu expand to other countries. The Syrah gave me a headache.
13. RON's Review :: January 01, 2009 RON's Rating: 3 Stars |
Awesome. Every AGO student knows that when your parents come to town, this is the place you should go. It's a multi course meal, and everything is beyond delicious. But it comes at a price!
14. Francine Duncan's Review :: December 26, 2008 Francine Duncan's Rating: 4 Stars |
Ever the optimist, i went here again last week, hoping that my first time was just a fluke. it wasn't. although i did note that service this time was better, and the wines at least came out with each course. the menu was a bit more classically adventurous than last time, but still lacked the innovation and taste to stand out in my mind.
15. Randy E's Review :: December 14, 2008 Randy E's Rating: 2 Stars |
Actually... I miss Agora too. Love Freank - been there twice now, great design - but, alas, I miss Agora. HF
16. Mike Pastore's Review :: November 29, 2008 Mike Pastore's Rating: 4 Stars |
After spending the morning touring the AGO, my husband and I sat at the bar at Frank for a light meal. We tried the fries and the salt cod fritters and they were amazing.
We will definitely go back and try the rest of the items on the menu.
17. Sandra Hotrum's Review :: November 29, 2008 Sandra Hotrum's Rating: 4 Stars |
Went to Frank for lunch, it was very busy! The service was great and the waiter knew alot about wine. For my app I had the pear with pancheta and blue cheese. I would go back for that alone! Please give it a try if you go. I can't wait to try the dinner menu.
18. Katie's Review :: November 27, 2008 Katie's Rating: 4 Stars |
the ambiance was not pretentious but clean and comfortable. food was delicious and perfect in size and reasonably priced. The wait staff was courteous and pleasant but needed to iron out some timing issues. Other than that, Frank will be the place of choice for that special lunch or dinner! Just make sure you get reservations!
19. Etsuko Nakamura's Review :: November 26, 2008 Etsuko Nakamura's Rating: 3 Stars |
I hate to say, but I've been to Frank 2x and I still miss Agora. The hostess and wait staff had overall good. The food was more refine at Agora. The moules frites were delightful with plump mussels and clams. The sauce base itself was nothing worth for the fries nor bread to be dipped in. Pancakes were nice, but I think I saw them serving a bigger size the week before. The smoked trout didn't need to be cooked so much, maybe heated, otherwise, you can't tell it was smoke trout or salmon. I've been to the Milford bay fish farm before, I know how their products tastes like, I continue to buy them at selected grocery stores in the city, but Frank spoiled it. The chocolate pudding was delactable with the salted caramel and the ginger cookie stick. Cappuccino was fine, not sure if they use Illy anymore, but I miss the biscotti. First week it didn't come with anything, second week it came with a chocolate. Hoping the biscotti will make it on the plate soon. My friends had tea, honey was unavailable.
20. Daphne Lam's Review :: November 23, 2008 Daphne Lam's Rating: 2 Stars |
Wow, I'm impressed! I loved the cafe Agora and was hoping Frank would live up to it. It certainly did! I found however unlike Agora Frank is more family friendly. My husband and I went with out the kids the first time and had an amazing meal, then went back with the kids and my mother a few days later and were once again blown away. They were so child friendly and the hostesses really made an effort to help the kids get settled. It is nice to be able to have fine dinning quality food with the entire family. We will be back again soon!
21. L.D.'s Review :: November 22, 2008 L.D.'s Rating: 4 Stars |
A buddy of mine got an BMW M3 and what better way to test out the his adaptive headlights than to drive to dinner at Frank!
We all had different mains - and, as you can imagine, it was all good! I like the design-y feeling here and it seems like a lot of regulars are stopping by to see the new space.
Thanks FRANK having such great food out in the burbs! haha!
22. Chris Muhkle's Review :: November 19, 2008 Chris Muhkle's Rating: 4 Stars |
Great food and good ambiance. We had an early dinner (got there early) so we avoided the rush. The space is gorgeous, and while the food was fine, there was still room for improvement.
23. Carey Raddick's Review :: November 18, 2008 Carey Raddick's Rating: 3 Stars |
The three best meals in my life have been eaten at the AGO restaurant. The dining room has always been intimate and the staff are very attentive to, but not pushy with, their customers. It feels like you're eating at your own home. The food is amazing and well worth the price (which is very reasonable given the quality).
I just hope the new restaurant - FRANK - is a worthy upgrade. Would hate to lose a great restaurant in order to make way for design.
24. Daniele Adria's Review :: November 17, 2008 Daniele Adria's Rating: 4 Stars |
|
|
317 Dundas Street West, Toronto, ON |
|
|
|
|
|
| |
MBO NYC :: NYC Restaurants & Dining Guide
