There was never anything that was particularly wrong with L'Impero, but that didn't mean that co-owners Michael White and Chris Cannon didn't think there was room for improvement.

Cannon and White managed to secure the services of designer Vicente Wolf to transform the old-world regality of the former dining room into an infinitely sleeker and more modern look. And, as always, "more modern" means lots of simple shapes and a white and silver colour motif.

L'Imperio may have been well-liked, but after sampling the cuisine at Convivo, you'll never want to go back. The menu has also changed dramatically, now focused on Southern Italian cooking with an emphasis on tapas-size plate sfizi, which means that you can expect a warm and inviting communal atmosphere. Hopefully you can remember the lesson on sharing you took back in Kindergarten.

The fact that the prix fixe menu clocks in at $59 should give you an idea of what to expect price wise. Fortunately, the food is worth slapping down the bills for. Expect plenty of pastas, salads, and expertly prepared mains like Salsiccia di Maiale (house made pork sausage, fried mushrooms, rucola salad, in an anchovy vinaigrette) and Pesce Spada con Salsa Cruda (grilled swordfish, tomatoes, mint, garlic, red onions, egg).

After one visit, you'll never even think of the word "L'Impero" again. -PB