In the '20s, a place was cool if it didn't have a name. Now, a name is okay but a phone number is evidently verboten (at least in the modern New York restaurant climate). Enter the Charles.

Charles is garnering buzz simply for being next door the Waverly Inn. Ok, ok, executive chef John McAllister reportedly had some help on the menu from Waverly’s John Delucie, so the constant mentions of the Waverly aren’t entirely out of order.

On first look, the menu doesn't seem particularly interesting, but read on and enticement increases. The first course offers upa potato gnocchi with squash, spinach, and pecorino romana; a red endive, watercress, dolce gorgonzola, pistachios and pear salad; and grilled octopus, blood orange, fennel, olives, and chilies. Intrigued yet?

For the second course, I’m a fan of seared duck breast, here served with roasted grapes and escarole or a pan roasted chicken with charred peppers, almonds, and arugula. Not tempting your palette? For a side dish, Yukon gold potato puree with caramelized onions and roasted hazelnuts, or roasted mushrooms with squash, pancetta, and sage are decent options.

Look, Charles has got input from the Waverly Inn; this food will be good, solid food, well prepared with fresh ingredients. Ok, if you want to burn your mouth off, maybe head to the nearest Indian joint. But if you’re in the mood for something solid and comforting, Charles is the place to go.