he new Brasserie Cognac does fine French food laced with a certain liquor that always alludes me. It’s a flavourful liquor that is delightful on its own, slightly warmed or cooked up in a lobster bisque or a croque monsieur for instance. Old men like it for its hearty undertones and young men like it because it’s expensive and comes in a fancy glass. I just can’t put my finger on it. Any ideas? –J.T.