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f Toronto is known as a multi-cultural city, then Kensington Market is its microcosm. Rather than the sense of pride found in separate identity (denizens of a district who are a specific race, religion, or sexuality) this is a community in the truest sense; here is solace in difference.
Historically, it has been a place where immigrants have laid down roots, where entrepreneurs have set up first shop, and where burgeoning artisans have found a creative outlet. Weaving through the labyrinth of small-time commerce and restos located at the half number, it is clear that Kensington Market offers a unique glimpse into the heart of the city as a whole—a living cross-section of the greater ethos. Martiniboys went for a jaunt though the metropolis in miniature, and here are our finds.
Can't afford to travel? Save the airfare for a dining, drinking and cultural jaunt through Toronto's international 'hood.
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Trekking southward along Augusta Avenue,
Rice Bar stands out among its Asian counterparts by adding a new dimension to the staple cereal grain. Brock Shepherd, of Azul and Canteena, proffers a mix of ready-made and do-it-yourself dishes with a flair for the unfamiliar. Weighty selections of rice, proteins, sauces, vegetables, and garnishes await your perusal; some gratifyingly regular, others curiously unusual (like miso BBQ and pomegranate sauces).
A sibling restaurant located next door to Rice Bar,
Wich? serves a motley of sandwiches that are anything but what Mom used to make. These ’wiches are named in homage to the twelve surrounding streets and avenues of Kensington, varying by their savoriness, sweetness, or cheesiness. Applying the same DIY philosophy, create your own 6-tiered gourmet-infused fist-full, and marvel at your culinary talents.
Across the street, the muted olive visage of
Supermarket is, in fact, the reincarnation of lost loves. Owners Greg Bottrell and Rob Eklove combine the flavour of Tempo with the spirit of Lava Lounge (sadly, now defunct). Grieve not the loss of Mod Club Wednesdays, Reggae Tuesdays, and Singer / Songwriter Sundays; they are alive and well in the Market,
and in a much improved, larger space. Reminiscent of the old Lava layout, the room is fitted with a retaining wall of booths that overlook an airy dance floor, adding this time around a solarium that adjoins the streetside patio. The open kitchen serves up Tempo’s blend of Asian fusion in the form of “izakaya”—small tapa-esque plates.
The neighbouring
La Palette pertains to the refined tastes of a more subdued crowd. Intimate dining without the fancy-pants attitude, La Palette represents the Kensington brand of relaxed elegance. Its interior is cast in dark rose hues and warm candlelight, evoking an appreciation for the serene pleasures of food and drink. The menu is
en francais (with explanations for the anglophones) covering an unusual range of exotic game. On one of my visits, the feature du jour was the Grillade—a selection of caribou, ostrich, horse, elk, wild boar, and Ontario lamb. Of course, terrine of fois gras is a classic choice, served with a cassis port jelly and challah toast points.