he appeal of Zen Ya can be summed up in three little words: damn good sushi. A line of ravenous, passionate, sushi-lovers forms outside this elegant, second floor restaurant; inside, hungry diners choose from an interesting range of teriyaki and shioyaki selections. But the real gem is the sushi, which features freshly prepared rolls of hamachi (yellowtail), unagi (broiled eel) and tekkyuu-maki (maguro and cucumber in a maki roll). The lengthy menu also offers miso-marinated, baked Malpeque oysters, teriyaki and shioyaki plates and ramen and udon soups. A succulent identity crisis, Zen Ya will indeed, um, food Zen ya (sorry Buddhists, I've verbed your noun). - R.B.