Troika, celebrating its 43rd anniversary, has been a fairly well-kept secret among stockbrokers, journalists and ex-pat professional hockey players who enjoy ordering tea with a side bowl of jam without getting weird looks. Its current owner had been a regular thirty-year customer who bought it when the original owner retired rather than lose his favourite haunt. Unfortunately, its biggest problem is that it is small. With a capacity of only 56, reservations are highly recommended as is a visit here anytime of year. - S.C.