ometimes décor can subtly mask a new restaurant’s ambitions; sometimes it can telegraph them in unsubtle, even unsettling ways. St James Cafe, which opened on a well-traveled section of Old Montreal, falls into the latter category. You sense it when you cross the restaurant’s threshold, and pass through the big solid doors.

The arrival of St James was a bewildering treat for this culinary season, and on the evenings, I was there, the entire space buzzed with the kind of anticipatory babble you might hear at the opening of a long-anticipated Broadway show. Even the food aristocrats kept up a polite, cautious banter until dessert, at which point they fell into a silent funk.

St James is a tender baby, and is regularly packed with a lively, chattering crowd, young people and older folks, French expats here and there, everyone elbow-to-elbow, drinking wine, digging into smoked trout salad or roast chicken. However, we're not in the 17th arrondissement; we're in Old Montreal, in the kind of place that makes you consider an aperitif - assisted by sommelier Élyse Lambert. Where else but a French spot would you see Porto (port) listed as an apéro? Kir sounds nice too, or vermouth.

But, we must be in France, as it's taking so long for the sole waiter to get around to taking our order. But the place, on each visit, is very packed, and the staff is stressed. There is, however, much to look at while we wait. (And wait, and wait...). Oversized chandeliers hang brilliantly overhead, Demone Blanche prints by Zilon hang about the oddly bland-coloured room. What is inspiring, however, is a monstrous eight-foot-high, glassed-in wine cellar displaying an award-winning collection to greet guests.

There’s also the menu to focus on, offering a selection of French bistro-style items. Best of appetizers include a Shrimp Remoulade, served with spinach, and an order of foie gras that cries out for Sauternes; a glass of Rieussec does the trick. The two slices of foie are satisfying, and it should, clocking in over $20. The tuna tartare (also salmon and beef are listed), while fresh and generous portions, are woefully under salted. (It is the crowd, the waiter explains. They think salt is unhealthy).