thought of writing, 'the ristorante so nice they named it Bice,' but that's not even verboten enough to be good. Instead, you get: Since 1926, this Milan-based mini-chain of fine Italian restaurants has slowly been claiming new fine-dining footholds throughout the world. With this expansion into Montreal, Italy has finally conquered a part of North America under its own flag (Columbus was a sell-out). The recent addition of a loving-glance culling, garden-esque patio further cements Bice's hold over epicureans, trenchermen, and air lovers (I think everyone, aside from fish, loves air). -S.T.