udging by the nightly swarm at the mighty Otto, something special has slid into the square-footage at the base of the W Hotel. The resto's decor is sufficiently hip to tempt hungry hipsters who hanker for the expensive heat of this hot new thing. For all the hullabaloo about Otto and the boutique hotel to which it is attached, kinks still need to be worked out. For the most part, Otto retains syrupy charm while simultaneously attempting to make a name for itself and live up to initial expectations surrounding this, the most expensive palindrome eatery in town.

Located in the heart of the Cite Internationale District, Otto - designed by W in collaboration with Miguel Cancio Martins of Buddha Bar fame - is a clean room of pinstriped walls, pyramid chandeliers and clean, uncovered wood tables. Otto, a co-venture between W Hotel and Bice Group, has an attitude that's chummy, yet haughty.

Heavy beats fill the space. Well-deodorized waitresses scurry about, eager to deliver dishes like lobster-stuffed ravioli, roasted Cornish hen and other unholy mutations - no one should be surprised to get precisely the sum of their vague expectations. Like W itself, this restaurant strives to provide for a diner’s every conceivable need.

Otto’s view of proper dining room is a place that has stripped some starch from the city's fine-dining scene, by packaging the venue in a nightclub wrapping, but still keeps a nice crease in its lapels. The wine list is long, affordable and appealing; the servers are sharp and mildly cocky –just off the runway, you know. It's the kind of place where Montreal’s semi-stylish über-yuppies and self-perceived power people can indulge their inclinations to be unpretentiously cosseted in a pampered setting while a steady stream of mainstream pop covers (my date recognized a lesser-known Beck song) encourages one to hang out and spend more of their hard-earned cash.

The menu pricing is in your face, so any nasty shock – and there will be - is with you from the outset (the initial warning is the $20 valet). The menu's laid out in the Italian way with five courses to choose from, and a half a dozen choices in each. But don't expect the usual pastas and pollos – this is W Italian food – a mix of bold and bland. The bold includes the ceviche of marinated tuna with peppers: a dramatic plate of pink fish, red slices of pepper and yellow pepper coulis, poblano salad and fried tofu. Bland is the sauté of squids that doesn't achieve much devilish delight; it's short on sassy tenderness, despite the addition of chickpea mashed potatoes in Tahini Sauce.