Mains are more ambitions with the likes of the Venere black rice risotto ($17), nicely peppered with crabmeat and an injection of mascarpone. A Bass steak ($25) in a macadamian nut crust, mashed squash, lobster bisque, extra-fine green beans. The beer braised Pork jaw ($22) was strongly recommended by our server, served in high-style with mashed potatoes and pan-fried vegetables; a Magret de canard de la Montérégie ($26) over wild mushroom cake, in a sauce “au thé lapsang souchong”.

Chef François St-Aubin (previously at Derrière les Fagots) has since replaced Alexandre Gosselin in the kitchen at O Chalet. St-Aubin doesn't have designs on changing the menu drastically, potentially altering the anachronistic setting that screams 1970 cottage. The O Chalet space has had a healthy run, and this shift might put some steam back into the biz. It's a credit to the new owner-operators (O Calet also changed ownership at the beginning of the year) that the fresh beginnings they've imposed don't jerk you out of the reverie.

The fact that the mention of Ô Chalet fried fondue is finding its way into the same page as Foie gras torchon is certainly causing some seasoned diners scratch their heads in wonder, but that doesn't mean the eclectic plates that are being sent out to diners are bad. It just feels a little like an exclusive cottage country party that somebody forgot to invite us to. - R.B.