There's something sexy about this St-Laurent restaurant, of which oysters are the specialty - which is in keeping with its origins and ambitions. The space is nice enough and a bit crowded, with blue and yellow accents –cozy and friendly. And you do pass an oysters display in the dining room. It's an incongruous setting for a place serving serious, if perfectly prepared seafood. Somehow the light colors make it seem better suited to day than evening. And, in fact, Maestro S.V.P. is serving a quick, good business lunch, serving a modestly priced version of the chef's star concept.

On the plate, Maestro S.V.P. is pure oyster bar. Portions are restrained, along with prices. Appetizers include the Cajun Grilled Calamari, and main courses range from a Goat Cheese and Sun-Dried Tomato Pasta to a “Chef's Seafood Creation". I devoured an entrée of Thai Shrimp sautéed vegetables - juiced up with ginger, curry and lemongrass on jasmine rice - so full of flavour I wanted more, though I could have used less olive oil and butter. Other options include grilled shrimps with lemon pepper in a foie gras velouté ($36.00); Seafood Pasta with scallops, shrimp, mussels, calamari and clams in a Chardonnay cream sauce. (27.00); and a plate of Madagascar Scallops sautéed with green peppercorns, flambéed with brandy ($28.00).

However, the real draw of Maestro S.V.P. is its oyster selection, featuring oysters by the piece, 1/2 dozen and dozen. Varietals are flown in when available and priced reasonably. - R.B.