he service is cheery, the beer frosty, and the juke tunes selected for the discerning bar crowd fits the scene (Warrant, GNR, Audioslave). All of which make up for the decidedly mediocre pub grub at this ex-Casey’s eatery in the Caisse de Dépôt building. The bistro materials throughout are rich, the pinpoint-precise lighting is flattering, and the sounds you hear are of adult conversation. Overall, the bistro décor recedes quietly, putting full attention on the tables. Ambient music fills the two bars during the after-work cocktail hours.

Apart from the addictive long, thin pizzas, though, there’s nothing heart-stopping on Chef Charles-Emmanuel Pariseau’s menu - other than the usual bar staples: beef tartare, salads, pizza, squid and pastas. Still, you must admire the manifest effort here, the pursuit of vision, and the reluctance to condescend. What will be interesting to watch over, now that it’s separated from Casey’s, is how Le Quartier manages neighbourhood expectations and navigates the territory between drinking and casual dining desires.

Next time we’ll probably just skip the food and fill up on booze, atmosphere, and performer Doyon’s jazz performance. -S.W.