Long gone is the pomp of Tsar Peter the Great, but the cable-TV concept of Russian cooking introduced during his reign remains. And Russian cuisine from the day of Russian diet, when the legendary 19th century chef, Careme, served at the court of Tsar Alexander I, still sticks to some Russian menus.

Fact is, regardless of the demographics, Russians love to eat. Ask a Russian if he'd care for a bite, and you might get a request to visit Le Georgia, a little Russian cafe near Queen Mary Road, where the staff happily serves up Russian delights in a eastern cottage setting.

As the countrified, somewhat simple name indicates, it’s a concept restaurant, although just what the concept is, isn’t always clear. Within lies a dark dining room, a spotless, cheerful room with dark oak treatment, heavy drapes and a fake - but oddly powerful - fireplace.

The gastronomic concept behind Le Georgia is the marriage of Middle East ingredients to classic Eastern Europe technique. On top of this, though, the chef has added a selection of hyper fashionable grilled items, which, of course, is another concept entirely.

Begin, as many Russians do, with a shot of iced vodka. Aside from vodkas from Stolichnaya, including my favorite, a rich anisette called ochotnichya - it's tempting to try them all. Since the menu touts vodka as the most refined of distilled spirits for its 'medicinal value'. But if spirits aren't your cup of tea, you can have tea served Russian-style in a glass.