Le Club Chasse et Pêche is a serious, market-driven restaurant cleverly disguised as a fishing lodge. The vessel of a restaurant - coolly settled in the old Fadeau location - confuses first-timers with its sign-less locale near Place Jacques Cartiers and cozy interior lights shining like lighthouse guiding a lost ship (it actually guides starving street wanderers to a beacon of deliciousness).

The focal point, upon entering the deep restaurant, is a 30-seat bar filled with lightly trashed cocktailers awaiting their tables. Further ahead is the dining room. The space shuns its industrial edge and instead pays decor homage to a hunting-and-fishing club.

Claude Pelletier - who joined forces with former Cube partner Hubert Marsolais – sticks to his Québécois cuisine roots here, and his signature plate presentation. Sauces and herbs are carefully drizilled over every plate to transform each dish into a little work of art. Pelletier's minimalist plate presentation is so pleasing to the eye that it feels as though he's constantly prepping for a photo shoot.

The food is equal parts Cube and Pied de cochon. The menu, which changes weekly, lists about a half-dozen appetizers - fois gras poele, mushroom tarte, the chasse et peche - with mild references to Pelletier's days at Cube (his classic salmon dish). With the braised suckling pig risotto with foie gras ($18), the less said the better for LCCeP loyalists.

But prepare to be delighted by creamy texture and new jolts blasted into standard fare. A foie-gras appetizer, for example, arrives in a cold terrine variation. The flavour is pure and intense, with a judicious amount of cream to smooth the sweetness and starch. But the presence of the cold style indicates a carefree disregard for seasons, also flaunted in the best appetizer in the house: The scallop appetizer with puréed Jerusalem artichoke ($15), in true Pelletier heritage, is immersed in butter and artfully arranged.