Don't put too much weight on the name of Hotel Crystal 's debut restaurant, which seems, abstractly, as if it might refer to a gangster dive in a hard-boiled detective story. The truth is much more sophisticated: the new hotel's glossy dining room has all the accouterments you'd expect to see at a luxury hotel.

Name aside, La Coupole is a casual enough spot where anyone would feel comfortable and at home. With a French menu that covers lunch, dinner, wine and a variety of tapas treats it’s no wonder guests of the Hotel Crystal have a hard time stepping out to eat.

The cocktail bar, with its masculine leather stools and black marble countertop, makes heavy use of glass shelving, giving the liquor cabinets a seamless floating quality. A chandelier, hanging from the circular fresco on the ceiling of the second level, is the stand-out centerpiece of the large room. Hence the name of the area: The Cupola.

The staff - dressed up to the nines - are attentive without being intrusive, which was a welcome change. I had just missed the pre-hockey game rush, which the room attracts partly due to a special game-night menu. La Coupole has a special menu after every show at the Bell Centre, and we're not talking run-of-the-mill brasserie food.

Barmaid Catherine informed me of not only the house specialties in terms of spirits but also of the all the clients who have become regulars in such a brief period of time. Food and Beverage Director Gino Mourin has brought the space alive, with clever creations like the house signature drink, The Coupole. The blend of 8-year old Bacardi, Cream of Amaretto, espresso and Crème of Cacao is as smooth as can be. Other cocktails worth considering are the Moulin Rouge and the off-menu Pink Sangria. The glass encased wine selection is also impressive, consisting of 80% private imports that remain affordable despite their rarity.