In titular honour, I am going to write this quickly. Montreal's favourite bistro (yes, I spoke for you, and I would do it again), L'Express specializes in consistently tantalizing French fare at reasonable prices. In a spy-friendly almost-clandestine space, L'Express lures locals and word-of-mouth charge diners of the fine smelling set. Popular at both lunch and dinner, the well-folded-napkin spot has a perpetual, though not overwhelming (perfectly whelming), bustle and din. Though the local and the express are typically at odds, L'Express brings the two together in gastro harmony (sorry about that, I was in a hurry). - S.T.