he moment you open the door to the John Sleeman Pub, you're hit with sensory overload. The dark, ol’ boys club atmosphere nearly makes you squint, while the overwhelming smell of bistro faves from Alexandre’s kitchen down below is enough to give you, well, let's just call them convulsions. John Sleeman Pub is a new take on an old theme; a re-packaging overload dedicated to all things brew.

With softly-lit lights abound, the wood trimmed room is both sophisticated and cozy, with the mandatory polished brass and even a working fireplace. Local designer Malcolm Brown opened up the space, filling it with a British gentleman’s pub décor. With its shiny bar and private nooks, the effect might be summed up as chinoiserie meets private club.

The bar's slightly private-club vibe is enhanced even further, with its beer shrine patina. With a good selection of exotic beers on tap, clocking in at $6 a pint, the number of folks actually testing new flavours seems to be on the rise here. The staff's hospitality - and this is upstairs at Alexandre et fils, after all - cannot be questioned. So much beer, so little time.

The superior suds to be sampled at the newly minted pub are so numerous it's difficult to pick a favourite: Sleeman’s Silver Creek lager? Anchor's intensely delicious Cream Ale? The megahoppy Guinness and Bass - all so tempting they practically require detox. The Guinness tap beer has the mouth-filling maltiness of a fine exotic beer as well as a complex, hoppy temperament; rich with warm, spicy undertones. Although it makes a fine accompaniment to Steak and kidney pie or a humble chicken sandwich alike, this beer can stand on its own - preferably in a cozy pub like this. A credit to all microbrews, from its rich, creamy head to its pleasant afterbite.