espite the occasional disheartened rant to the contrary, we acknowledge that this town is blessed with some truly great restaurants and have the ever-growing hungry masses to appreciate them.One of the brightest is Garde Manger, which continues to injecs some much-needed life into Old Montreal’s soporific restaurant scene.

This fish-centric restaurant successfully bridges the gap between fine dining and rustic (if not downright pastoral) interior design, creating an ostentatious space for the area dwellers in which to graze. With its vintage, crab-shack décor fueled further by the oddly chosen rock soundtrack. A chalkboard menu, vintage chairs and a large chandelier all add a certain depth to a room oftentimes filled with tourists and downtowners slumming in the area. The characteristic fireplace seals the deal.

Chef Charles Hughes formerly of Time Supper Club adds finesse to the food; his menu offerings are such whimsical starters like the seafood platter for two. This is a monstrous array of clams, shrimps, crab legs and oysters, all presented on a tiered serving stand with an assortment of sauces. Another good starter is the salmon tartare with scallions.

Mains are varied. Of the more inspiring creations, the rack of braised ribs whose clean flavour is further enhanced by a mild apple infusion. Also appealing is the bavette et frites; sliced rare and served with fries, this is a hearty meal.

Since diets are moot in any place like this, dessert must also be sampled: Try, if you must, the deep-fried Mars Bar topped with ice cream and fresh fruit. Don't be afraid…or shocked. It's oddly delicious, ask anyone with deep fryer.