The dishes that set Ezo apart from the 24-hour takeout joint are the seafood platters. Fillets of red snapper, black sea bass and salmon are available year round and the platters of grilled shrimp and octopus are perfect to share.

All in all, the experience, like anything new, may leave people discombobulated at first, but I have no doubt that even the snobbiest and most racist Montreal foodies will soon respect for Lebanese cuisine thanks to Daou’s bold presentation. –J.T.