Looking for a cute, new date place? Enter Dune, a tiny bistro in Plateau packaged in bouncing-ball cuteness. Replacing the Algerian restaurant La Gazelle, Dune aims to be a spot where a couple can eat, drink and tip well and be out the door for under $100.
The eatery offers up tapas sized East-meets-West inspired fare (actually small plates called "kemias") and has been kept hidden as a neighbourhood possession - oh, those Plateau-ites. On a recent weekday night, the place was packed with a mix of area dwellers and charming date types scoping out the cozy digs. Fans of La Gazelle, the homey cafe that formerly occupied this space, will appreciate the slickness of the takeover.
Dune deftly balances elegant (yes, there are more sparkly chandeliers than ever, and the place seems entirely wrapped in chenille and gold accents) and accessible. The low-style, bungalow setting is a perfect match for Chef Vincent L. Baule's homespun North Africa influences.
The nibbles we tried suited the spirit of the place - and the season. We approached the small-plate menu with suspicion. From a mini tagine of lamb to a couple of seafood options to prissy-sounding contemporary fresh tuna roll, the menu tries to pull off an awful lot. Turns out our suspicions were deliciously unfounded.
Best options include the asparagus salad; light and fresh, fueled further by velvety quail eggs; a top-notch confit of yellow beets and goat cheese, served on a salad with a tart lemon vinaigrette. A mini tagine of lamb is wonderful, although the beef can be stringy rather than fall-apart tender. The stew has tender braised morsels of lamb served with prunes, a curious counterpoint to the tender stewed meat.