he last documented fatal Canadian duel took place in 1833. Since then, gloves have reverted to mere hand warmers while seconds have been relegated to pre-leftover meals. However, the Duel has returned to Montreal, albeit in restaurant form.

Utilizing spatulas rather than pistols, Chef/owners Laurent Godbout and David Biron have created a unique concept in the old Area space on Amherst. Battling often - though seldom at dawn - the two go head to head in the kitchen, battling for the hearts and, inherently, tongues of Duel patrons at one of the more ambitious eateries to come along in years.

With oft-changing rosters of ingredients, each chef must concoct his own dishes; sharing the same template, neither has an advantage. Godbout's atypical French fare and Biron's Asian-leaning creations make for an interesting clash of sensibilities.

Each diner can decide between Godbout's or Biron's inventions, though Benjamin Kunkel adherents can try the tasting menu. Symbiotically and symbolically divided in half, the room preserves the theme. Both chefs are allocated their own side of the space, so choose wisely.