evi was a beloved Indian restaurant in Manhattan that closed down at the height of its popularity last summer. Fear not, loyal readers, Devi has been resurrected in Montreal; though, sadly sans the original chefs (a decision that looks like it might have been a mistake). The Montreal incarnation vies to live up to the prestigious Devi title. The owners are working with the same mixture of cuisine, demographics, and décor but everything about this restaurant feels cozier and more mature now that it’s in Montreal. That is, if you manage to ignore the unceasing bongo-beat soundtrack.

Devi is exquisitely decorated with hand-carved wood, tapestries, and stucco paintings. The menu is stocked with standard but reasonably priced Indian fare, including samosas, biryanis, curries, and a variety of lamb and chicken dishes. Despite the lavish design, dependable title, and decent menu, the advance word on this location isn't good. According to many critics, the new chefs are merely offering standard Indian fare without much of the exciting experimentation that characterized the infamous New York location.

It’s still too early to tell if the Montreal Devi is a failed experiment; but, as of now, it’s not looking good. This could turn out like a bad movie sequel: earlier success meant the creators got a big enough budget to make everything look nice, but they lost track of what made the original special in the first place. Or it could be the Godfather Part II of Indian cuisine. Only time will tell. –P.B.