With a strong fish and seafood accent on the menu, Delmo doesn’t want to shy away from meat lovers or health-food enthusiasts. That’s why they’ve pursued traditional dishes, and then gave them a new spin.

“A more modern menu with fresh market products is definitely what we’re aiming for,” says Holder. “And you won’t necessarily think the menu is healthy on the whole, but if you look for it, you’ll find it.”

For starters, the soup of choice is definitely the Delmo bouillabaisse with aioli and croutons ($12.50), or take a worthwhile chance with the house salmon gravlax with beef salad for $11.75. On the fish menu, the shrimp risotto ($19.75) is served to perfection with chanterelles. The salmon, monkfish, double red tuna tartar or seared scallops are all recommended options that range from $19.75 to $25.00.

For those craving red meat there is the venison tartar ($25.00) served with fries and a mesclun salad. Or opt for the massive rib steak with grape mustard butter ($29.00), designed to leave you loosening the belt a few notches. Raw oysters are served fresh ($15.25 for half a dozen), while warm oysters with madras curry ($16.50) and oyster shooters with Muscadet ($4.75) are all worthy options.