Decca77 also owes a huge debt to Chef Daren Bergeron. Flushed with the success of Club 357 in Old Montreal and still cashing cult-cred cheques on Vancouver’s Lumière, Bergeron brings every ounce of quality and furious style at his disposal to this venue. Bergeron has drafted original technique-driven, fresh-ingredient inspired cuisine; a mix of mostly tapas delights. Getting much attention is his Foie gras au torchon ($20), banyuls vinegar and pickled white turnip. Another hit is the ethereal, greaseless Venison tataki with radish salad and marinated shiitake. Or the tagliatelle ($24) with roasted sausage, arugula and parmesan. And on a hot evening, treat yourself to a soju-based mojito).

For dessert, a pistachio blancmange is served up with an amaretto foam; just the icing on a cake that’s almost entirely icing to begin with. Gloriously amoral, grown-up fun. - R.L.