npretentious, detail-savvy and deliciously traditional, DNA Restaurant is out to set a trend in the Montreal restaurant scene. The conceptual interior design by Bruno Braën and the market-Mediterranean cuisine by Executive Chef Derek Dammann are both well-tuned with the service of managing owner Alex Cruz (hence the name DNA, Derek ‘n’ Alex).

Situated in Old Montreal, along rue Marguerite d’Youville, DNA Restaurant opened in late January. Even in the slow season, DNA is already gathering steam, packing up on a regular basis with seating for 67 available in the dining room. Actually quite a bit about this restaurant features that number, including the view of the '67 World Exposition’s Habitat out the front windows.

The two partners are appreciative of respecting tradition in the kitchen and in the décor as well. The Mediterranean flavours are fresh, prepared with techniques and philosophies of old-world traditions, yet decidedly Canadian. According to Chef Dammann, cuisine along the coasts of Italy or France will have tastes enhanced by their respective climates. Here in Montreal, the ingredients are carefully sourced not to give the client a false representation on the style of cuisine. Keeping it fresh means choosing from the right microclimate, such as their olive oil that is from Dammann’s friend in Tuscany.

DNA is not competing with the high-end restaurants in Old-Montreal, for the menu is reasonably priced without a single main course over $30. The lunch menu offers two courses for $20 and three courses for $25. There’s no pretentious ambience either, as the wait staff is casually uniformed in fashionable dark jeans and sweater-vests over a crisp white button-down.

For lunch, you’ll hear jazz softly filling the room while plates of grilled octopus and oyster mushroom salads float by on platters. The mains vary, with items like tagliatelle with mint and chilies to the wild striped bass with green beans, tomato and herbs.