tep into the classic French glow of Clementine and you've suddenly lost ten pounds, ten years, and 80 stress units. Everyone in this Victorian house is beautiful. Is it the 50-plus-bottle wine list? The 20-odd glass pours? The effervescent bar scene? The half-dozen tapas plates, perfect for nibbling and sharing?

No, it's the lighting. Greta Garbo would envy the golden incandescence that illuminates every Clementine denizen. Norma Desmond would approve of the glamour that bounces off the walls. No wonder the place is widely recognized locally as Romance Central. - A.J.