rgentina has a shot at Sweden-style coolness. Ernesto is still popular - Steven Soderbergh is shooting two biopics - tourism is up (I may have just made that up), and Argentine cafes are popping up in the Plateau. Chez Gabriel offers up light-bite fare with a South American bent, so practice your "r" rolling. Budget-friendly and heavy on the bean juice, it should entice loyal patronage from neighbourhood denizens. Try the pizzas and baked goods, but don't start a revolution. -S.T.