he proverb goes: you can lead a white horse to beer, but you can't make him drink chestnut lager (or something like that). Cheval Blanc offers several affectation-free beer varieties for connoisseurs and plebs alike. Pub-ish and welcoming, this joint feeds an eclectic, seemingly disparate crowd hotdogs and yeast, lubricating evenings of grins, shrugs, stories and unobtrusive arm touches. Incidentally, have you ever heard a horse utter "neigh?" Me neither. -S.T.