ower Crescent St. (below St. Catherine) has blossomed into its own unique quartier due to the infusion of many pubby and offbeat spots. Brutopia is one of them. Opened in 1997, this is one of those new breeds called a brewpub; a bar with a license to brew and sell its own beer on the premises.

On entering, I was instantly transported into ex-hippie heaven. You can almost feel the grand old building heaving its massive red brick shoulders and sighing “Why can’t we all just get along?” A giant batik hovering over a couch-lined wall beckons the world weary to take a load off and settle in. Mellow music underscores customer chatter wafting through a labyrinth of secret nooks and crannies on two levels. One hideaway hugs a huge shiny copper vat where fermenting is actually taking place. This is laid-back at its best.

Brutopia’s beer is creatively created without preservatives with recipes rotate depending on the seasonal ingredients available. If you don’t know the difference between a full-bodied blonde and India pale ale, neophyte palates are encouraged to taste before they buy. (Try the raspberry blond to smell pungent red berries just before the beer taste takes over. Incredible.) There is no bottled beer, but there is normal bar service. At night, the mellow atmosphere morphs into a wild thing once the musicians du jour hit the stage. A cozy little balcony perch on the second floor is the best place to get a bird’s eye view of the band and watch the unfettered dancing.

Initially, I thought this would be a “beer snob” establishment-- full of hop connoisseurs comparing notes. And although, resident brewmaster Chris Downy IS constantly hunted down by budding “brewies” seeking advice, this spot stopped being all about the beer a long time ago. And that’s just the way current owners Jeff Picard and his partner Allen planned it.