Co-owner Jérémie Falissard compared the commercial renaissance of Old Montreal to that of SoHo in New York -- both former ghost towns now experiencing a resurgence in popularity due to the influx of new money and the sheer beauty and availability of the architecture. Housed in a former tavern, the interior of Barroco is small and intimate. Two cozy booths and about fifteen tables in total imply that the restaurant will never get so crowded that you can't hear yourself or your dining companion over the din. The organic feel of its stone walls, exposed wooden ceiling beams, and stuffed boar's head above the fireplace pleasantly contrast the chic black and red colour palette. A rich decor of ornate gold frames and mirrors, black brocade fabric covering the bar, and a majestic chandelier prove true the old adage: if it ain't Baroque, don't fix it. -G.M.