hree seasoned MOntreal restaurateurs -- formerly of Les 3 Brasseurs, Santos, and Buona Notte -- take their combined knowledge and expertise to a new joint-venture in western Old Montreal. Slightly off the beaten tourist track and located on the ground floor of an old Napoleonic greystone, Barroco will serve a menu of rustic French, Spanish, and Italian fare and a selection of private import wines. It promises to cater to Montreal's business and fashion sets, providing a much-needed alternative to the overcrowded (and overdone) Saint-Laurent scene.

The restaurant contains all the requisite elements for your typical supper club: designer decor, a well-stocked bar, and a killer sound system. The bartenders are well-versed in the fine art of cocktail preparation, having all been trained in the London style where, apparently, all of the good drinks are made.

From the get-go, diners should expect to have major difficulty deciding what to order due to the wide selection of delicious tapas-sized appetizers, freshly-sliced charcuterie, and exclusive, savoury cheeses brought in from Fromagerie Noyon in France. Best bets: Try the Spanish rice-stuffed tomato, the potatoes au gratin, or the tender portion of lamb to start.

Barroco's menu is intended to remind patrons of grandma's cooking -- except presented in a much more artistic fashion -- giving them that warm and fuzzy feeling inside. Chef Terence Sheppard of Med fame may have predicted the diner's predicament in choosing a main course, so the menu is divided into meat, poultry, fish, and pasta sections for extra clarity.

The Tagliatelle ai Funghi is a particular standout, as is the Dorado. If you still have room for dessert, try the seasonal fruit platter, if only for the presentation. Fresh berries and figs come served in a picture-worthy arrangement on a long platter; it's so lovely to look at that you might not be able to bring yourself to dig in and mess it up. Less neurotic sweet-tooths can indulge in some simple brutti ma buoni almond cookies to continue with the feeling of eating at Nonna's house. And then there's always the chocolate mousse. Have fun deciding.