Celestin
Celestin's imaginative French fare consistently packs in a well-tended crowd(ie no riff-raff or scallywags). Chef/Owner Pascal Ribreau's solid menu, the competent service, and elegant décor - a profusion of cut flowers, large tables, and generous spacing - create a divine dining experience. Ribreau's menu is dominated by fish and lean meats, accented with a cunning selection of sauces and infused oils. Winning first courses include a carry-over from Allumette; a tender, rabbit meat ravioli, with shallots and basil. The ravioli is a tender marvel, brightened up here and there with a delicate dab of olive oil. Lighter palates will also gravitate toward the potato blinis; a soft baked potato and cream cake, served with escargots, arugula and shallots on a puddle of pastis. Yum!–J.R.
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Cfood
Perhaps the most satisfying single piece of paper in the entire Yonge and Eglinton area is the Xeroxed sheet that is shoved between a laminate of plastic at the start of each day at Cfood: a hastily typed list that struts the day's fish offerings. I know it’s a stretch to believe that there is good food anywhere within driving distance of what has become a sports bar central. However, there is a bright orange awning to indicate it. Firmly positioned in the location that was previously a Bloor Street Diner, Cfood brings to the area a fresh fish menu that has the downtown set re-considering Yonge & Eggers as destination dining. Sure, there’s not as much crazy crap on the walls as the local sports bars, but some times you have to go for quality food over general silliness. -D.W.
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Chez Victor
Chez Victor opened in the space that was previously Luce; Guy and Michael Rubino's Italian restaurant. Small crowds of party-animal account executives can be found on the regular at the handsome hotel bar knocking back glasses of Moët & Chandon (and lord knows, nobody parties quite like accountants). But, otherwise the dining room is quiet on a normally busy Friday night in the city. Admittedly, most of Toronto is still unaware that Chez Victor exists in the Hôtel Le Germain (it opened in May). But, Luce was also unusually quiet near the end of its run. As the old saying goes, you don’t have to be loud to leave your mark. –S.W.
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The Citizen
If dipping a slice of Merguez Sausage into a puddle of mustard and washing it down with a glass of Merlot sounds appealing, then head to Riverside's latest entry, Citizen. Four letters shy of the famous AFI #1 movie pick of all time, this new restaurant was indeed born of idealistic social service with aspirations to provide the ‘hood (and local citizens) with a refined alternative to Pizza Pizza. But, like Mr. Charles Foster Kane, it could crumble under the pursuit of power and ego while vying for the currently hot Queen and Broadview It Spot title amongst entries like Burger Shoppe, The Comrade, Soma and the upcoming Prohibition. –S.W.
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Crush Wine Bar
Owner Jamieson Kerr has created a bit more than a mere bistro. Not to get lost in the King West District, it is strategically placed, sharing patio space with Brassaii, and is a dramatically crafted dining room. Kerr wisely chose a minimalist, wood-and-earth-toned design scheme that keeps the focus on the tall windows, allowing signs of city life to pour in. The menu will seem slightly familiar, although much originality has been put into the production of the plates. A jovial banter emanates from the bar while a mildly entertaining buzz comes from the huge open kitchen at back of the room. With Crush being an all oak element, it expresses great warmth. This certainly isn’t a rabid party spot filled with scantily clad teenagers, but sometimes you need a break from that…or at least a quiet spot for dinner before a night of partying with teenyboppers. –M.B.O.
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