t started about eighty years ago, when Jack Kriendler and Charlie Berns opened what be called '21' Club, so named for its address on 52nd St. That numerical moniker became the arbiter of cool. And, as trends generally form, other restaurateurs were soon emulating the numerical formula – usually referring to the venue's address - as the restaurant's name. There were cleverer variations: Dropping the name altogether was an effective if not overly confident play. But we're talking short-lived spots that have no name at all: No sign, no advertising, no anything.

At the other end of the spectrum, was the wrist-slittingly awful trend of naming spots for the original lot number on which it sits, a la Lot 16 and Lot 332. A bad excuse for a name and an awful trend that has come and, to a certain degree, gone.

However, trend or not, the numerical-chic naming continues apace with a whopping three new adventurous eateries that have been labeled with numbers. Cue the distinguishing ad hoc packaging full of gastro-archeology and shiny design clichés, and you’ve got yourself a numerical catfight.

First out of the gate is Eight, which, of course, is at 8 Colborne Street. Eight replaces Doku 15, a gorgeous bar that nobody went to, taking up much of the lobby space of the Cosmopolitan Toronto Hotel. The lounge/restaurant is still undeniably glamorous, yet the space still feels more like a club than a restaurant and, in many ways, it is.

The crowd is older, mostly traveling businessman meets Lipstick Jungle (or Cashmere Mafia, your call). Yet the bass-heavy soundsystem, concrete aesthetics and glam customers can’t detract from Eight’s dishes being surprisingly good. Overworked and fussy perhaps, but Chef Derek Kennedy's ingredient pairings work – think pan-seared black cod, or charcuterie plates of Niagara proscuitto, foie fras terrine and Serrano ham.

Kennedy's short menu of mains features a Kimchi-rich Ahi tuna ($24.00), nicely plated with ginger soy sauce to deliver the proper amount of bite. The ravioli ($16.00) is another good option, with puffy pillows filled with the meat from oxtail cooked with five-spice powder. They are sauced with a zesty tomato sauce with king oyster mushrooms. I loved this dish, although a tighter grip on the spices would have been appreciated.