eviewing a multitude of Italian restaurants has made me really appreciate the fine art of preparing hand-made bread and pastas, some would say the mark of a good Italian restaurant. At Spris, (pronounced 'Sprees') named after a well-known apertif from the Veneto region, pastas and breads are meticulously prepared by hand. And if you happen to be sipping on a bit of Spris, why not try a bite of Tiramisu? Like the pasta and bread, it's still prepared the old-fashioned way by soaking the savoiardi (lady finger biscuits) in espresso coffee and topping them with a mixture of mascarpone cheese, sugar and beaten egg whites. The pizza's come thin-crusted and piping hot out of the oven, perfectly toasty on the edges but soft in the middle. Bravissimo! Bravissimo!