emy the rat had a tough time getting people to enjoy his Ratatouille, but when they finally got over the fact that a rat was in the kitchen cooking up their dinner, they absolutely loved it. Disney films aside, my experience with the popular French veggie stew wasn’t as successful as Remy’s, to put it lightly, and I don’t even have rats in my kitchen (that I know of, anyway). The owners of Café Maurice are starting up yet another French bistro in South Beach called Ratatouille and we hope to God there are no rats in their kitchen.

Ratatouille took over the old 8 ½ spot in the Hotel Clinton in early April. The petit restaurant was given the once over by French designer Herve Tapin. In its new incarnation the space is warm and reminiscent of the South of France. Beams of soft multi-coloured light decorate the vintage French film posters on the walls and a chalkboard menu lets guests know about the specials of the day. Guests’ discuss the lush menu over white linen tables and candlelight underneath wide umbrellas outdoors. A small pool completes the romantic atmosphere of Ratatouille’s patio.

One of France’s famed chefs, Gerard Chauvet, is running the show there. His menu is a collection of French Mediterranean cuisine with a focus on fresh fruit de mer. Snails in a butter white wine sauce are a succulent starter that is best complemented by the saffron spiced Soup de Poisson. There is a certain dramatic je ne c’est quoi to each dish that becomes apparent when the dorade main is served. The fish is served whole and deboned tableside for diners’ viewing pleasure. The flavours delight all sides of the tongue and the eating goes slow to avoid the disappointment of that last bite.

Ratatouille is a step up from 8 ½. In fact, I’d even give it a 9. And don’t worry, there won’t be any rats cooking up your dinner here, although Remy was kinda cute. –J.T.