emo is easy to find; it's on Collins Avenue. Chef Mike Sabin transforms gills and crustaceans into epicurean masterpieces; don't expect a chippy or roll and weed template. The ambiance, not-so-subtly refined, lends a swankness to water-breather eating. If Long John Silver's is London, Nemo is Tokyo, but, you know, underwater. Bring a gold-plated snorkel - actually, if you have one, sell it, then make a reservation. -S.T.