ypically, one should refrain from eating metal but, luckily, gold is particularly soft. Besides, if the French do it, it must be cool. The favorite bakery of the beret and cigarette set, La Brioche Doree is renowned for fluffy and appropriately flakey croissants and candlestick-maker-compatriot (not the butcher) fare. Hugely popular and well-loved, LB sneaks the smell of cooking flour out into the streets, luring the French-minded like the promise of wine and foreign liberation (oooh, burn). -S.T.