The rest of the menu is a list of a steak house's greatest hits, some well executed, some merely overpriced. At a price topping $70 - a premium on Devito's already-pricey options - the 28 Oz. Porterhouse is one of the thickest steaks in town. Meant to split between two, the steak arrives juicy and with a slight salt-and-pepper coating, but the sheer thickness of it keeps the salt level from becoming overbearing.

Chef isn't shy about seasonings. The exterior of the 16 Oz. Bone-In Filet Mignon ($54) is painted heavily with what the menu calls DeVito Dust (trust me, it's better than it sounds). The Filet was surprisingly tough and chewy, and the fries, sadly, were mediocre at best. Limp and lukewarm, the fries, even on subsequent visits, continued to disappoint.

Another pricey cut is the 8 Oz. Australian wagyu Sliced Flat Iron Steak ($48). The Wagyu is an expensive cut in itself, as it comes from cows that have been fed a distinctive diet meant to improve the marbling beyond anything what any other beef can achieve. And this cut doesn't disappoint; rich, desirably fatty, and dusted with that eponymous dust, the steak is served with, as an optional luxuriant treat, fried truffled eggs. Want to impress your associates? The Kobe Flight is a global wagyu trio for two to three people, and will set you back $325.

DeVito's delivers some of the summer’s bigger splashiest venues in the area. It also tests our tolerance of arrogant, well-coifed waiters feeling contemptuous about their elitist practice of saving the best tables for "the best people." One suspects the closer you are to actually being an arrogant, well-coifed local, the more you’ll like it.