espite a number of fantastic, long-running hotel restaurants, dining in inns lost popularity for a spell. Lodgers will always be drawn to onsite fare but, unlike past generations (notably the Lost) fewer people were queuing for hotel restaurants. In the last several years, however, hotel dining has experienced a renaissance of sorts, and nowhere is that truer than SoBe.

When you’re dining at the Ritz-Carlton – any Ritz-Carlton that is – you can expect a prevalence of posh-ness. Miami’s Ritz has an oft-lauded design and opulence befitting the brand. Thus, its in-house restaurant has to conform to the quality standard. Enter the recently opened Bistro One LR. Like any five-star hotel eatery, Bistro One LR (I wanted to use an acronym, but its name doesn’t make a very appealing one), has a requisite level of luxury. However, an airy vibe, care of the adjoining patio, tempers any would-be haughtiness, as do the couch-like surroundings, bright palette, and clean lines.

As for fare, Executive Chef Thomas Connell’s kitchen has crafted its dinner menu with contemporary flair. So close to the sea, you’d expect a host of mains that used to swim, and you wouldn’t be disappointed. Standouts include Monkfish Osso Buco ($30) and Seared Filet of Grouper ($34). If you’re looking for a more substantial main bite, LR has a selection of carefully prepared red meat options, from steaks and beef tenderloin ($34 - $36) to a pork chop ($28) and rack of lamb ($32).

Dinner is the primary draw, but Bistro One also serves lunch and breakfast. The former’s card has a number of sandwiches, but don’t expect standard offerings. Instead, try the Crab Cake Sandwich ($18) or Croque Monsieur ($14). Also available is an innovatively and atypically intriguing take on an old favorite: Macaroni and Brie ($14). Any time of day, Ritz’s Bistro One LR promises culinary innovation in a surprisingly inclusive, though no less refined atmosphere. The Ritz approach is intoxicating. It immediately establishes the mood of opulence that has defined the brand's restaurant to date.