While the Wild Ginger schematics and full-on lounge action are both surprisingly (considering the size of the space) and wonderfully executed, the fare is perhaps more ambitious. This can be remedied if you order correctly, so heed my advice accordingly. The sake-miso marinated sea bass, for example, is visually impressive, plated with a tempura fried vegetable roll. This is a big player with a good dose of flavour, but the accompanying cashew cilantro sauce is too potent, and renders the entire dish as a rich mess.

The seven-spice beef tenderloin ($34.00) in a beef reduction, is enriched with a perfect balance of the Asian spice treatment. Other dishes are less familiar, such as the enoki miso soup and the mint & kaffir lime beef salad of which the beef was tragically overcooked, with no trace of gorgeous fat (and flavour).

The wine list is healthier than you might imagine, with mainstream regional Italian varietals, more obscure labels and quite a few sold by the glass. If in doubt, find the best-dressed person in the crowd and order what they’re having.

Another negative: the less than stellar service – a pretentious atmosphere breeds pretentious waiters. Once we managed to get past the door, our server was friendly and accommodating, if somewhat spacey. However, when we asked about her favorite dishes, she drew a blank. Come to think of it, she brought us our check without asking if we wanted dessert (though visual feasting to the sexy young diners cum loungers was more than enough encouragement to skip any calorie-laden treats).