ome restaurants win respect and others inspire romance; Teatro does both. Located in the 1911-built Dominion Bank in the Arts and Theatre District, Teatro is as refined as its name. Recently spruced up, the eatery has retained its old-fashioned, regal charm.

Though softened a tad by a pitched ceiling and corner windows, Teatro still feels slightly stilted. The overall vibe, in all its discordance, remains static: it's the handsomest Italian restaurant in town. Poseurs beware: Teatro exudes flashiness and requires a correspondingly lavish budget. The room is elegant but unpretentious; tables are set with oversize wine glasses while Corinthian columns embellish eighteen-foot ceilings.

If Teatro's dining room is a stately epic, then the adjoining Opera Room, falsetto free, is an unpretentious character study. The newly minted space, operating as a private function room, is glossy and upscale. Opera Room boasts blasts of modern whimsy that Teatro lacks, standing alone as a separate entity rather than an after-thought appendage (i.e. baby toe). With a tighter crush of people and a louder conversational hum, the Opera Room's conviviality is antidotal to the chilliness of Teatro's sleek contemporary style and subdued palette. Impressive large white globes and my-daughter-went-to-Yale puffy Chairs add to the air of inclusiveness. While hyperattentive and hyperinformed servers wander about, one wall of the dark room changes colours for dramatic effect, reflecting the more frenetic aura.

Neither stagy nor solemn, Teatro's beautifully conceived and elegantly presented food befits the majestic resto. Both rooms showcase Executive Chef Dominique Moussu's modern Italian fare, replete with an eight course tasting menu. First course standouts include a Caesar salad that clocks in at a whopping $18 (no wonder Brutus was so angry), and a Winter Caprese Insalata ($16) served with buffalo mozzarella; a Miso Marinated Sablefish ($18) is partnered with grapefruit and shaved fennel salad, while a duet of seared Quebec fois gras ($26) is full of delectable, warm, woodsy flavours.

The insanely rich, shareable (if you're feeling altruistic) Lobster and scallop lasagna ($32) should not be missed. Light, homemade pasta dishes (available in half portions) range from the Foie Gras Ravioli, with truffled celery root puree, and the Gaspersie Sea Spinach Spaghettinie, with poached lobster and anchovy butter, to the Fairwinds Goat Cheese Ravioli.