uffets are forgettable, ravenous one-night stands; diners are drunken conversations and full ash trays; pizza places are long distance relationships; and bistros are your junior year abroad. But delis, delis last forever. A good sandwich place lets you experiment and change things around, but adheres to a common, familiar template. Delis are safe, but maleable, spontaneous, but accountable. Say the word 'Spolumbo'. That felt good, didn't it. Try the sausage. - S.T.